Saturday, April 28, 2018

Lima Site 85, 2 years later

My last visit to LS85 was 2 years ago (link here). When I read that the site was opened to the public on the 50th anniversary of being overrun by the NVA, I needed to visit one more time. Looking back,  I'm convinced that the stairs were in the works when I visited in 04/16.

North Thai Biker (NTB) and I did the ride together from Chiang Mai on a pair of 250s.

We entered Laos from Chiang Khong and exited at Vientiane. Big shout out to Greg F. for all of his tips on border crossings. We couldn't have done it without him, 555!

Two years ago the dirt road from Sam Neua to LS85 was rough in many places. Today the road is still dirt but is in excellent condition, probably the smoothest dirt road I've ridden in Laos.

Foreigners are welcome to visit the site but require a signed document from the Army HQ in Sam Neua. Cost of the permit is 50,000 kip. Foreigners also require an army escort whereas Laos nationals are free to roam wherever they like. Our soldier escorts were gracious and pleasant and there wasn't anything that they wouldn't let us take photos of.




The new road from Houayma village is visible to the left of Phou Phathi.


I asked and was told that there are 8 army staff that stay in the barracks at the bottom of the mountain and seven soldiers that stay at the top. The soldiers keep a group of goats at the top but they were penned up when we visited.

UXO placed next to the stairs.



There are several tiny cave hideouts at the top of the stairs.


Remnants of the original "ladder" visible through the stairs.


Neither of us had heard of or seen photos of the 4WD articulated forklift seen here at the landing strip.


Our new Laos friends were enjoying the Marlboro cigarettes that I brought from my recent trip to Mexico.


Helo rotor hub between the airstrip and the TACAN site. As with all of the other scrap metal we saw, only the largest pieces that were too heavy to move are left. There wasn't any evidence of a downed helo except for the hub.

I think it needs oil right here.

NTB says "Hurry up, we're almost there!" as he climbs the trail from the airstrip to the TACAN site.


Beautiful views from the top.





Scrap metal left behind







It will be interesting to compare these photos with the previously documented layout of the TACAN site.

Guy wire tie down for the antenna?


Generator engines, broken blocks with crankshaft exposed.




More scrap iron









More beautiful views







View with NTB that gives perspective on elevation


Laos and communist flags fly over the site.


This way to see big gun at the end of the airstrip.



Heavy artillery at the end of the air strip.


2nd piece of artillery at the airstrip.


We noticed several large rocks on the airstrip and guess that they came from one or more of the craters we saw.

Crater in the airstrip.


Fuel storage tank.


It was interesting that we didn't see any MAG markers on the site. Hopefully no one accidentally discovers that the site was mined.

I didn't count them but read that there are 1,100+ steps to the top.

NTB hustled down the stairs when he found out that it was OK to take a photo of him on the ladder.
Climbing the stairs was tough, definitely not for anyone who isn't in good shape.



I didn't get many photos on the climb down the stairs. My legs were turning to rubber and I focused my attention on the steps since the spacing changed often.

Stairs heading back down



Not shown in photos: There was a large pile of sand, another pile of crushed rock, and a pile of bricks at the top that were hauled up manually. Not sure if they're going to build an outhouse for visitors or more permanent barracks for the guys that stay on top.

Regrets? I was rushed by NTB and the army guys as I was taking riding armor off before the climb up and forgot to bring my gps with me to capture the change in elevation. I also wish I would have worn shorts instead pants. There was a nice breeze at the top but I was still warm from the climbing.
Also, it felt a little strange to imagine what the Air Force guys who lost their lives must have experienced 50 years ago. There is a FB group for the families of LS85 casualties, I hope they don't feel we disrespected the memories of those who lost their lives here.

Lastly, I did get bombed at the top. NTB took it upon himself to photo bomb the 360 selfie I took.